Autumn Song

“Tonight, we are friends! But when it’s the Palio, we will be enemies,” Cristian– the ever friendly owner of Bistrot della Duca, a favorite restaurant– told us with flair as he served Dan’s gnocchi and my Chicken Marsala. 

Cristian lives in our Italian town, but in a different section than where we live. His casa (house) is in a different “terzien.” The town is divided into three districts or “terzien,” and during Palio, they compete hotly against each other. Competition is serious, and apparently Cristian needed to prepare us for it. 

This division of terzieri in Citta della Pieve dates from medieval times. These three districts consist of the Terziere Castello (meaning “Castle District” otherwise known as the aristocracy); Classe del Cavalieri (“Class of the Knights” or the middle class); and Classe Borgo Dentro (“little house dwellers” or peasants.) In ancient times, the Terzieri were well defined in social rank and distinct social classes. Now, everyone is equal… except during the Palio.

Every year, for about twelve days in August, a medieval festival called the Palio takes place, featuring events like medieval parades, plays, Renaissance music, juggling, fire-breathing shows…but one of the anticipated highlights is the “Taverne of the Terzieri,” huge feasts where each terzien can enjoy the specialities of traditional Umbrian-Tuscan cuisine. These are located in three separate sites, one within each district, and the food is plentiful, served by costumed waiters/waitresses. Each district boasts its own distinctive flag, and during the festival the whole town is alive with a fluttering abundance of flags lining the streets. (Our flag in the Terziere Castello is green and black.)

The festival culminates on a Sunday evening, with a mammoth medieval parade through the town. There are three sections of the parade, one representing each terzien. Dan and I calculated that about two thousand participants were involved, each one wearing beautiful and authentically crafted medieval costumes, perfect in every way including shoes, boots, hair braided with ribbon and literally hundreds of details. Cannons, trebuchets, live oxen, horses carrying knights in armor, bands of drummers, floats, Renaissance musicians, swords, coats of mail, and every conceivable medieval representation was on display. 

Immediately following this truly stunning parade, the massive crowd made its way into the concrete bleachers at the soccer field to wildly cheer on the highlight of the festival, the “Caccia del Toro” or archery competition between the three terzien. Each terzien has three archers, each with three arrows. The targets– three wooden bulls– circle on a carousel, speeding up with each turn. Whichever Terziere makes the most and most accurate hits wins the Palio. The competition was incredibly loud, exciting, and oh so beautiful. (Incidentally, Terziere Castello won the tournament! I’m sorry, Cristian… can we still be friends?)

Only one aspect of the event could make it more perfect:  having family with us to enjoy it, and Lord willing, our two 18 year old grandkids will be with us for next year’s Palio. That will most definitely be perfection!